26 Jul 2009

Beach life in Batu Ferringhi

12th - 14th of July
Essentially, this destination is one main street running parallel to the beach with resort hotels claiming the majority of the sea views at one end and restaurants, beauticians and bars situated across the 4 lanes of traffic. At the far end, practically on the sand you’ll find a small road with the few guesthouses taking in the stray backpackers and locals. There are no swimming pools or private beaches and the jet skis, sun loungers and touts are significantly less so you’re left with white sands, palm trees and the occasional sets of tables and chairs spilling from the bars. If the sea was clear then it would be picture perfect but even with grey water it is still the most beautiful side of Ferringhi.

I arrive around 2pm and view every hostel - most are within a few pounds of each other but friendliness varies considerably and I walk out of the most popular after only a few minutes with the staff. I settle into a double room next door, which involves walking through someone’s living room and kitchen but they are all smiles and I think I then entire floor to myself. I head off to the only ATM in town and meet Katy, looking every bit the backpacker – overloaded and lost. We’ve all been there and if the Lonely Planet is good for anything then it’s certainly not maps! Turns out her newly made friends are at the unfriendly place so we head off together and I meet Sonia and Katrina, now my new friends too.

By night the streets are cooler and markets fill every inch of pavement, the hawker stalls are brilliant and we eat local food for a tenth of what we pay by the beach – and that’s in the budget area! Then we splash out on some Singapore slings in a graffiti bar and a foot spa on the way home before creating our own little bar on the beach with supermarket drinks, iPods and a log for a table - happy travellers!

Next day, despite the staff (80% of whom are not too convincing lady boys and very reluctant to be dragged away from their make-up mirrors) we continue to use the hostel cafĂ© (we’re lazy) and based on a decision made at around 3am, even use their booking service to get us to Phuket. So after a lazy day for Katrina and I on the beach and a ridiculous day for Sonja and Katy – who spent 4 hours getting to the pathetic ‘snake temple’ where the snakes are possibly fake and they were ripped off by a monk of all people, we book the bus and get a decent night sleep. 7.30am the next morning and we’re picked up on time and assured that this minibus will take us right through the border and drop us in Phuket town for around 4pm – and all for just over £20! Too good to be true? You know it. Apart from anything, it’s totally impossible as Phuket is around 11 hours away, which doesn’t quite allow for the 2 bus changes and hour long abandonment at Krabi. Amazingly enough, moods stay more or less intact (ah the beauty of new friendships!) and we're in Phuket.