Easy as Pai

31^st Aug- 4^th Sept 3 winding and beautiful hours north of Chiang Mai, nestled in lush mountains, is the hippy town of Pai. Once filled with stoners (but the new ‘shoot to kill’ policy on drug trafficking has kinda put a dampener on that) and now catering for the alternative traveller with everything from crystal healing to yoga and tattoo art to cookery and long lazy days in which to do them. Most arrive here on word of mouth so prices are low, the vibe authentic and the locals friendly, inquisitive and eccentric. And on top of that, Pai is undeniably beautiful. I too am here on word of mouth, having been told to ‘skip the rest, head straight to Pai and stay in the bungalows by the river’ so I find a little place called Golden Huts with an ensuite, a wooden balcony and an uninterrupted view of the mountains for £5 a night. Then I patch up the mosquito net with an assortment of hair clips and venture out to see what it’s all about.

balcony & sunrise view

I’ve been here for 3 days now and I did an introductory course of yoga yesterday at Mam’s, which included over 4 hours of tuition with meals thrown in for just over a tenner so I was both excited at the prospect and the bargain! In my planning (I use that word loosely), I find reviews on this place and it is the first time I have ever read a bad review and then gone anyway - this is based on the fact that the review referred to Mama as ‘fat’, which was both unnecessary and untrue, so I figured it was more the reviewer than the experience that was negative. Anyway, yoga is for meditation as much as it is for strengthening muscles and improving flexibility and it’s something I have always wanted to get into but I’ve generally been a bit disappointed with the experience. Now I see that location really is everything. We’re lead through the little reception, decked out in animal prints and with a handwritten welcoming sign saying ‘yell loudly, I’m upstairs’ and up a little ladder into the yoga room - a stunning wooden Thai house, surrounded by lush plants and layered with Indian rugs, photographs, candles and Buddhist shrines. There are no mirrors, no studio lights, no shiny floors, no clocks and no air con. The room alone makes you enjoy yoga. Over the next few hours, we’re taken through a series of animal inspired poses, known to the yoga fan as a anything from downwards facing dog to full cobra and I’m happy to find out that although I can’t touch my toes or stand on my head, I’m not altogether rubbish at this. My balance is pretty good, the lotus position is not out of reach, bending over backwards feels great and I can happily lie on the floor and concentrate on my breathing for as long as you like! Then I get cocky and put my shoulder out. Luckily, we have 2 hours free before the next session so I head for massage number two in 24 hours and endure the most painful thing I have ever paid for, but it works and today my shoulder is fine, it’s everything else that hurts!

Mam's yoga & rush hour on the mainstreet

Pai seems to be built on the concept of relaxing and there is nothing not to like about it. Too long here and you’re at risk of becoming one of the self-absorbed long term weirdoes, but just enough time and there’s a good chance you’ll feel like a brand new person. The book I’m reading just now ‘Eat, Pray, Love’ (brilliant by the way) is written by a traveller on a journey of self discovery and in Italy she meets a guy who claims that every person and place has a word. Rome’s is sex. New York’s is achieve. Pai’s would be Relax. And on this note, Hannah and I (my newest ally) finish our healthy yoga day with cocktails (fruit juice, totally counts) and a few travellers at one of the funky bars (ok, wooden bench and stools at the side of the road) before another packed day of relaxing.

I think I’ll head back to Chiang Mai on Friday and perhaps go trekking with Logan over the weekend so that just leaves tomorrow but I think one more day with perhaps a visit to the hot springs might just be a perfect amount of Pai xxx